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Underground Cities: 3500 years of Cappadocian cave homes

Cities, empires and religions have risen and fallen around these unique underground havens once used by early Christians to hide from Roman armies, yet they remains occupied to this day – 100 square miles with 200+ underground villages and tunnel towns complete with hidden passages, secret rooms and ancient temples and a remarkably storied history of each new civilization building on the work of the last. 


The fields of architecture and urban design would do well to center their sustainable sights on this unique site – few structures outside of this area in Cappadocia have survived for so long. Some of these buildings go up to five full stories underground and date back to Roman times or beyond, though many caves were carved out by human hands long before their empire arrived.  


The fantastic rock formations used as shells for these dwellings date back millions of years, and much of the more recent architecture has survived for hundreds or even thousands of years – despite being laid siege to many times over and housing everything from armies to explosive weapons factories. 


Centered in modern day Turkey, this region has passed between hands many times. The contemporary residents speak a hybrid of Greek and Turkish and, unsurprisingly, bus tours, hotels and other visitor-oriented services comprise much of their current economic system.


Built up over time for defense as much as shelter, narrow passageways have made it notoriously difficult for invaders to penetrate the perimeters of many of these underground cave complexes. 


In part due to their secret locations and the naturally temperature-controlled nature of the cave interiors, many religious artifacts and artworks have survived for over a thousand years. All the while, surface structures have been erected and destroyed while modern architecture mixes in strange hybrids with historic temples and above-ground houses. 


While many buildings remain occupied, many more are now deserted – from homes to entire churches and underground cathedrals. For all we know, some rooms and structures are forever lost and buried, hidden so well they will never be found again.  

Source: Dornob | Images via AlaskanDude/flickr [November 16, 2011]

New gallery reveals skill of Neolithic Chinese potters at The Oriental Museum in Durham

Two years ago, Chinese art-historian Xiaoxin Li began an investigation into hundreds of ceramics. 

The Oriental Museum is the only collection in the region specifically dedicated to the art and archaeology of the Orient [Credit: Culture24]
His inquisition surveyed models made for burial in ancient tombs, porcelain created for the Imperial court thousands of years ago, an iron horse and a range of incredible carved jade ornaments. 

Now they've gone on show in a new gallery devoted to Chinese art and archaeology, taking over an entire floor of Durham University’s Oriental Museum. 

"There is a huge amount of new research being undertaken on Chinese art in China itself, as well as across the world," says Craig Barclay, the curator at the museum. 

"New archaeological finds are being made all the time in China that are reshaping our understanding of its history. 

"Xiaoxin's work has enabled us to reconsider and redisplay our wonderful collections in the light of this new understanding." 

The centre of the display concentrates on Chinese ceramics since the Neolithic period, revealing the immense skill of Chinese potters and the beguiling beauty of their handiwork. It gives prominence to bronze weapons and religious artefacts along the way. 

Source: Culture24 [November 16, 2011]

In search of Herod's tomb

Historian Josephus writes that King Herod the Great, who was appointed by the Romans to rule Judea between 37 and 4 B.C., built a magnificent circular palace at a spot located about 12 kilometers south of Jerusalem. 

Herodion - the castle and tomb of King Herod [Credit: Bible Walks]
Dominating the desert landscape south of Bethlehem is the volcano-like mound of Herodion with a distinct conical (Josephus calls it breast-like) shape, which Herod filled with lush gardens, elaborate apartments, and heavily fortified ramparts. 

Today, 2,000 years after Herod's time, Herodion is a wonder to behold. Although the site was conquered and destroyed by the invading Roman army in 70 CE, the ruins are well-preserved and include the various halls of the fortress, ritual baths, water cisterns, and the remains of a first-century synagogue built in the Galilean style. 

In 2007, after decades of research and after retiring, archaeologist Professor Ehud Netzer of the Hebrew University of Jerusalem claimed that he had discovered the tomb of King Herod midway up the hill on the northern slope of Herodion, at a spot that directly corresponds with a description of the King's burial place in Josephus. 


A team of his of researchers found by chance pieces of a limestone sarcophagus believed to belong to the ancient king. Although there were no bones in the container, Professor Netzer said the sarcophagus' location and ornate appearance revealed it was Herod's. However, what has not been found to date is an inscription, which would validate the tomb as King Herod’s. 

The site of the tomb is one of Israel’s greatest archaeological mysteries. Netzer died in October 2010, several days after sustaining a bad fall when a railing gave way at the site, which he had been excavating for more than 40 years. 

King Herod is renowned for his grand construction projects, including the Jewish Temple in Jerusalem, the Caesarea complex, and the palace atop Masada. 

Source: The Jerusalem Post [November 08, 2011]

Treasure trove in Thanjavur

Libraries not only provide books, but also act as a link to history, art and culture. The Sarasvati Mahal Library in Thanjavur is one such. It has some rare palm leaf and paper manuscripts, old books, maps, plans, and other treasures. There are 49,000 manuscripts in the library. Of them 25,0000 are palm leaf manuscripts. The “Encyclopaedia Britannica” in its survey of Libraries of the World refers to this as “the most remarkable library” in India. 

Housing treasure: The Thanjavur Maharaja Serfoji's Sarasvati Mahal Libraray and Research centre [Credit: M. Moorthy]
The library is considered as one of the biggest manuscript library in Asia. The oldest palm leaf manuscript here is Phalavati, belonging to 11th century. The earliest paper manuscript is Bhamati dated 1476 A.D. The earliest printed book in the library is dated 1692. 

The first Tamil to English Malabar dictionary printed in 1779 A.D and reprinted in 1809 is found here. There is a huge collection of maps and plans prepared by the British are in the library. One can see the map of Tiruvannamalai written as “Trinomalee” with the “Giri valam” path marked on it. 

Rare paintings 

The Museum is another attraction of the library. There Botanical pictures painted by Rajah Serfoji II, the Maratha king who was the architect of the library, is on display. 

Ancient markings: Thiruvanamalai area map [Credit: M. Moorthy]
Can one judge the character of a person by looking at the features of his face? Yes, say the Human Physiogamy charts in the Museum – it was believed if the face was like that of a fox, horse or bird, his character may be like that of the animal. The lithographic pictures by Charles Brown of 18th century traces how a human face resembles animals. Pictures of crime and the punishment that was given in China, depicts the cruelty. 

The Maratha King Serfoji two (1798-1832 A.D.) was the architect of the library. But the library was called “Sarasvati Bhandar” during the reign of Nayaks of Thanjavur (1535-1675 A.D). The Maratha rulers (1675-1855 A.D.) patronised the culture of Thanjavur and developed the Palace Library. Among the Maratha kings, Serfoji two was an eminent scholar in many branches of learning. He learned English, French, Latin and other languages. He was also interested in arts, science and literature. 

Collection 

During his pilgrimage to Benares, he employed many pandits to collect, buy and copy a vast number of works from all renowned centres of Sanskrit learning in the North and other areas. Serfoji not only collected books but read them and made markings in his own hand in the books. 

Neatly kept: The manuscript section [Credit: M. Moorthy]
The library has the richest collection of manuscripts in Sanskrit, Tamil, Marathi and Telugu. There are 37,000 Sanskrit palm leaf manuscripts in the library. They are written in Grantha, Devanagari, Nandinagari, Telugu, Thigalari scripts and a few in Malayalam, Kannada, Oriya and Bengali. 

The Tamil manuscript section comprises of more than 7500 titles. It includes literary and medical ones. They are palm leaf manuscripts and can be categorised into rare commentaries on the Sangam works, unpublished portions of classics, and Saiva, Vaishna and Jain works. 

The Telugu manuscript section has 1043 palm leaf manuscripts and 44 paper manuscripts. Yet another unique feature of the library is Modi scripts. 

Modi is type of script used for writing the Marathi court language during the period of Maratha rulers in Thanjavur. They are all paper manuscripts. 

A preservation department preserves these manuscripts. Microfilming of rare manuscripts is also done here. There are 65,000 books in English, Tamil, Sanskrit, Marathi, Hindi, Telugu and other Indian languages. The Publication section prints and sells books. 

Located at the palace complex, the library is a reference and study centre for various research scholars. Digitisation of books and manuscripts is planned by the library. 

The library functions six days a week from 10 a.m.to 5.30 p.m. and remains closed on Wednesdays, Second Saturdays and Government holidays. The library museum is open all days except on Government holidays. 

Preserve for posterity 

Palm leaves are periodically cleaned and smeared with Citronella oil, an extract of Citrus grass. It gives flexibility to the palm leaves and repels insects. 

Records on leaf: A palm leaf Manuscript [Credit: M. Moorthy]
If the script of the manuscript is not legible, then the lamp soot mixed with Citronella oil will be used for making the letters clear. 

Every day 600 manuscripts are cleaned and smeared with Citronella oil. This way all 25,000 palm leaf manuscripts are cleaned in a routine. 

How to read books? According to P. Perumal, conservator of the library, books should not be opened beyond 90° . 

To help this, book reading stands are kept in the library. 

Red colour is used for books as red repels insects. Manuscripts and books are kept in ten big almyrahs. 

The Microfilming unit was installed in the year 1980 to preserve books and manuscripts in microfilm form. Sanskrit manuscripts are recorded in the microfilm form and this is a joint venture with Indira Gandhi National Centre for Arts, New Delhi. 

Author: G. Srinivasan | Source: The Hindu [November 07, 2011]

Bodrum Underwater Archaeology Museum breaks tourist record

Bodrum Underwater Archaeology Museum, known as the only underwater museum in Europe, attracts great attention from tourists even at the end of the tourist season. 

The Bodrum Underwater Archaeology Museum has 13 display rooms where the world’s oldest sunken wrecks are displayed. “It has become the focus of interest for world-famous documentary channels,” says the museum’s deputy director Erhan Özcan [Credit: Hurriyet]
The museum, visited by more than 300,000 people a year, has 13 display rooms where the world’s oldest sunken wrecks are exhibited. Two more display rooms will be added to the existing ones this year. 

Featuring thousands of historical works of art, ship wrecks and artifacts including the treasures of Queen Nefertiti, the museum is a very important one for Turkey’s culture tourism industry. 

Located in the harbor of the Aegean province of Muğla’s popular holiday resort town of Bodrum, the Bodrum Underwater Archaeology Museum was visited by 300,000 tourists in the first 10 months of the year, spending nearly 2 million Turkish liras. 

The 2,400-year-old Carian Princess room and the room of 3,500-year-old Uluburun sunken ship, which is the world’s oldest surviving sunken ship, draws the greatest amount of interest from visitors. Among the other popular specimens are the Eastern Rome sunken room, Glass sunken room, Early Bronze Age sunken room, English Tower, German Tower, Turkish Bath, dungeon and amphorae. 

The removal of the wrecks and artifacts from the water and their conservation are explained to visitors by experts via slide shows. 

The museum is flooded with people in summer and even winter from Greek Kos, Leros, Kalimnos, Patmos and Rhodes islands. It was reported that nearly 30,000 tourists came to Bodrum by boat to visit the museum. 

Visitors of the museum are welcomed by warriors and janissaries carrying axes, swords and shields in the entrance of the Bodrum Castle. It is said that this is highly surprising for tourists. 

The museum’s deputy director, Erhan Özcan, said interest in the museum increased every year. He said it was a very important historical area not only for tourists but also for Turkish and foreign archaeology students. 

“The museum has become the focus of interest for world-famous documentary channels,” Özcan said. “Forty television channels from 35 countries including National Geographic, Japon NHK, Discovery and the History Channel have filmed the museum over the last three years. Thanks to this, millions of people have the chance to closely know Bodrum and the museum. We also earn money thanks to tourists visiting the museum and make our promotion that is worth millions of dollars. This is why we will open the Miken Room and Knidos Frescos Room to the benefit of cultural tourism in the next few months.” 

Source: Hurriyet Daily News [November 08, 2011]

Uncovering Delhi’s Ancient Cities

Delhi’s two most recent “cities,” — colonial New Delhi and Shahjahanabad — are highly visible parts of the city. They lie at opposite ends of the spectrum in terms of landscape forms. One is, essentially, a Beaux Arts garden city, the other an incredibly densely occupied “medieval” city, at least in its urban form and usage, even if the majority of the buildings are from the nineteenth or twentieth century. Less conspicuous are the remains of earlier cities that constitute parts of south Delhi. There are estimated to be at least seven. The reason for the uncertainty is that there is doubt as to which of the early settlements count as former cities. This depends on different people’s interpretation of Delhi’s history. 

Shahjahanabad, now known as “old Delhi,” was built by Shah Jahan, the fifth Mughal emperor, when he moved the capital back to Delhi from Agra in the 17th century. Old Delhi essentially consisted in the walled city, the Red Fort, pictured [Credit: Feng Li/Getty Images]
There are archaeological traces of an urban past in Delhi that go back to at least the first millennium B.C. while the existence of an Ashokan rock edict in south Delhi indicates a settlement of some importance in the area during Ashoka’s reign from 274-232 B.C. However, the first buildings that we can securely connect with a city are the 11th– and 12th–century walls of the Rajput Qila Rai Pithora (now known as Lal Kot.) Significant stretches of these can be seen in Sanjay Van, near the Qutab Institutional area. The “capital” of the Chauhan Rajputs, the clan who controlled this part of India for a few centuries before the Sultanate period, was actually at Ajmer but the first sultans — Afghans who overthrew the Chauhans in 1192 — built a ceremonial center in the heart of the Rajput city of Delhi and it developed into the capital of subsequent sultanates. Among other partly intact buildings that survive from that period, the Qutb Minar, a victory tower, and the adjacent mosque are justly famous. As well as testifying to the arrival of Islam in this area, they also illustrate the way in which local craftsmen were employed to create a superb synthesis of Rajput and Afghan art. In addition to the reworking of local motifs in alien structures (mosques and mausoleums), the buildings show how temples that were destroyed as a symbol of victory were recycled: the colonnades of the mosque are built from miscellaneous temple columns. 

Jama Masjid, which stands across the road in front of the Red Fort, was built by the Mughal Emperor Shahjahan in the year AD 1656 with the help of 5,000 craftsmen [Credit: KonnectIndia]
Approximately 100 years after the Afghan invasion, Sultan Alauddin Khalji embarked on a vast unfinished project to expand the original mosque. But he also built a high-walled enclosure approximately half the size of the existing city and about two kilometers away, on the military camping ground. It is not clear whether this “city,” now called Siri Fort, was any more than an army headquarters but the evidence, in the form of a decorated turret and the ruins of some large buildings, suggests it may have been an urban center. Indeed, the north African traveler Ibn Battuta recalled seeing Alauddin’s palace inside Siri, although no evidence for this has materialized so far. Very little excavation has been done inside the erstwhile walls, approximately half of which is now open woodland, much enjoyed by walkers. 

In 1320, soon after Siri was built, Ghiyasuddin Tughlak, a member of the local Afghan nobility, took power. Over two and a half years he built Tughlakabad, perhaps the most atmospheric of Delhi’s ruins because its more or less intact rubble-stone walls have kept out the tide of Delhi’s advance. The village within the walls has now expanded so much that it has consumed most of the old settlement, leaving only the palace areas for archaeologists. Astonishingly, despite the size of this new city, the next sultan, Muhammad, went back to the original site and enclosed all the land between Qila Rai Pithora and Siri, calling the whole complex Jahanpanah. This was the city that Ibn Battuta visited in the 1330s and it contains two vast and magnificent mosques as well as by far the most enigmatic building in Delhi, the Bijay Mandal. This could well be the remains of the Hall of a Thousand Pillars where Ibn Battuta paid court to Sultan Muhammad. It now consists of a massive rubble structure topped by an octagonal pavilion, with a collapsing vaulted hall on one side and, beside these structures, a huge flat area that might well be the foundations of a bigger hall. The buildings underwent several modifications and, romantically, contain pits that must have been hidden under the floor of the vaulted hall. When opened in the first half of the twentieth century these were found to contain treasure in the form of coins, gold, rubies and fragments of coral, ivory and other luxury items. 

Turkman Gate, Old Delhi [Credit: Anuradha Goyal]
The third of the Tughlak sultans, Firoz Shah, who reigned from 1351 to 1388, may have been politically unsuccessful (he lost considerable territory) but he was a great builder and conservationist, making repairs to many ancient structures, including the Qutb Minar, and transporting two Ashokan pillar edicts to mount on new buildings in Delhi. Some believe that the impressive remains of one of these buildings, Firoz Shah Kotla, a large fortified area near the river, is the centre of an entirely new city. This is unlikely because 10 years after Firoz Shah’s death, the great Turkic Mongol leader Timur (Tamerlane) took Delhi and, in his memoirs, he clearly describes Jahanpanah as his conquest. 

Throughout the first couple of centuries of Sultanate rule the court at Delhi attracted numerous outsiders and also sufi clerics who built khanqahs and attracted wide circles of followers. It was not only the sultan who built in and around the city; there were many patrons building for the community as well as for themselves. By the time of Timur’s invasion we should  picture two large walled areas, Jahanpanah and Tughlakabad, surrounded by peripheral forts, hunting lodges, tombs, shrines, reservoirs and, even, an observatory. These were spread over a wide area. 

Humayun’s tomb in south Delhi [Credit: Virendra Singh/Hindustan Times]
The dynasties who controlled Delhi for the next period of more than 100 years did not rule over as large a territory as the Tughlaks. But they still contributed a number of very fine buildings in the form of tombs and mosques, for example the Lodhi sultans’ tombs in Lodhi Gardens. It is, however, somewhat unclear where their palaces actually lay. One of the later sultans embarked on building a new city close to the river (where he was soon to be murdered), but nothing of this remains. So we have to assume that Jahanpanah remained the capital. 

The year 1526 brought the Mughal invasion and, from 1540 to 1555, an interregnum when power was seized by Sher Shah Suri, a talented local Afghan chief from what is now Bihar. During this period, another fort was built, with walls more impressive than earlier ones, but covering a comparatively small area. This is what is now known as the Purana Qila. When New Delhi was planned, it would have closed the vista down King’s Way, now Rajpath, from the Viceroy’s house, had not the afterthought of the National Stadium interfered with this piece of urban drama. This fort might have become the nucleus of a new Mughal Delhi. In fact, although the later Mughals sometimes visited Delhi, they ruled mainly from Agra. Delhi did not become a capital again until Shah Jahan, the fifth emperor, finding Agra too congested, decided to build a new city some distance to the north of the earlier cities. The old cities were still known as Delhi and they later became known to early colonial visitors as “old Delhi,” distinguishing them from the new city of Delhi, Shahjahanabad, north of which the British established their cantonment. 

Adham Khan’s tomb, Old Delhi [Credit: Anuradha Goyal]
Shahjahanabad itself consisted of the Red Fort, with its extensive palace buildings overlooking the river, a number of princes’ and noblemen’s houses strung out along the riverbank to the north and south, and many others occupying large sites within the city walls that enclosed the land around the fort on the west. Interspersed among the mansions of the nobility, which would have resembled the kind of palaces that, for instance, have often become hotels in Rajasthan, were the straw-thatched houses of the rest of the population. As time went by and the Mughal court shrank, so did the building projects. As late as the mid-nineteenth century there were still a number of substantial multi-courtyard mansions, but more typical were houses that consisted of an elaborately decorated entrance to a forecourt or entrance passage with one or two further courtyards behind. Until well into the twentieth century this continued to be standard for the residences of the upper strata of society, although sometimes the decorative features were entirely European in inspiration. 

During the nineteenth century, when the British were in power in the Delhi area, the city diminished in importance: the fiction was maintained until the 1857 Uprising that Delhi was still ruled by the Mughals, with a diminished royal family and many impoverished relatives still surviving. After 1857, the city was to some extent punished for its role in the Uprising and it remained politically unimportant. Its inhabitants did very well commercially, however, and the city expanded considerably, mainly to the west of Shahjahanabad, while the European community was concentrated to the north, between Kashmiri Gate and the Cantonment, now the site of Delhi University. 

This was the context in which, in 1911, Delhi was once again selected as the capital and the hunt was on for the ideal site. 

Author: Lucy Peck | Source: The Wall Street Journal/India Real Time [November 01, 2011]
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